Corneum
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The argument

The science

Hair care treats hair. Hair is dead. The scalp is skin, and it's alive.

01 — The outer layer

Stratum corneum.

The outermost layer of skin, and the name of the company. On the face it gets serums and actives at stated concentrations. On the scalp it usually gets conditioner.

You cannot fix hair. You can only change the skin it grows from. Hair improves as a consequence.

Schematic cross-section of the scalpFrom the surface down: the stratum corneum, a thin outer layer of dead cells; the living epidermis; and the dermis, where the follicle sits. The hair shaft above the surface is dead. The follicle beneath it is alive. Not to scale.Hair · deadStratum corneumEpidermisDermisFollicle · alive

02 — The growth cycle

Every follicle cycles.

Growth, a short transition, then rest. After rest the hair falls and a new one starts. A shock to the system pushes many follicles into rest at once, which is why shedding appears months after its cause.

Stress shedding →
The hair growth cycleThree phases. Anagen, growth, lasts two to seven years. Catagen, transition, lasts two to three weeks. Telogen, rest, lasts about three months, after which the hair is shed and the cycle starts again. Not to scale.Anagen · growth2–7 yearsCatagen · transition2–3 weeksTelogen · restAbout 3 monthsNot to scale

Density's claim is about this cycle: more follicles in the growth phase. Not thicker hair.

03 — The actives

Every active is named with its percentage on the front of the vial. A brand that won't state the concentration has a low concentration.

  1. Salicylic acid 4.0%

    A beta hydroxy acid. Loosens the bonds between dead cells so scale washes away.

    In Cleanse →
  2. Salicylic acid 0.5%

    The same mechanism at a dose a sensitised scalp can tolerate.

    In Cleanse Mild →
  3. Niacinamide 3.0%

    Supports the lipids that hold water in the outer layer.

    In Barrier →
  4. Panthenol 1.0%

    Draws water into the skin and calms it.

    In Barrier →
  5. Caffeine 5.0%

    Studied for its effect on the follicle's growth phase.

    In Density →
  6. Peptide complex 2.0%

    Signalling peptides aimed at the follicle environment.

    In Density →
  7. Ketoconazole 2.0%

    An antifungal. Reduces Malassezia, the yeast behind seborrhoeic dermatitis.

    In Reset →

04 — pH and concentrate

Most shampoo is water. You already have water.

Cleanse pH
4.2
Conventional shampoo
80% water
Corneum refill
40 G, not 400
One refill
30 ML makes 200 ML

05 — What we won't claim

No volumising, no thickening, no reversing. Nothing makes hair thicker.

Vessel 01$65 · Bought once